The basics of getting good aurora photos:
It's easiest and more affordable to start with a digital camera. Film can be cost prohibitive when you're learning, and practice is essential.
The best aurora photos are usually taken with digital single lens reflex cameras (aka DSLR).
Single Lens Reflex cameras allow you to compose a scene exactly as you will capture it, and give you complete control over shutter speed, aperture, ISO, focus as well as allowing you to change lenses to maximize the amount of light you gather.
Three key pieces of additional equipment I'd recommend are a tripod, at least one spare memory card and at least one spare battery.
It's easy to fill a memory card in one setting, when shooting the ever changing aurora, and if you're shooting in far northern or southern latitude, (which increases your chance of seeing aurora) batteries don't usually last very long, due to frigid winter temperatures.
A tripod is essential, as it is impossible to hold a camera perfectly still for the length of time it takes to expose these shots. In a pinch or a tight area, try balancing your camera on a bean bag. I have even used my wadded up coat, laying on the ground to aim the lens.
Use either your camera's Manual mode (meaning you have complete control over all settings) or Aperture Priority mode. Aperture priority mode means that your camera's light sensor decides the correct exposure length, while you choose the aperture This setting can help you react more quickly to the changing light intensity of the aurora's dance. If you're using a camera that doesn't have these options, see if you have a fireworks setting. I've seen decent photos from point and shoot cameras using this option.
Start with your aperture open as wide as you can get it. Anything tighter than f2.8 limits your shots by forcing you to use longer exposures, and can often cause problems ranging from noisy images, (speckled and/or streaked), to soft, vague or dim aurora.
Your shutter speed will likely be between 1-30 seconds depending on the intensity of the light. If you're stuck with a narrower aperture than 2.8, you'll really need to be able to add more light by increasing your exposure time - a remote cable (around $10 for a cheap one) and the "bulb" setting on your camera will help you compensate for this, if your camera doesn't have longer exposure settings.
The ISO setting will vary depending on the quality of the image sensor in your camera. With many older cameras your ISO might need to be set around 200, to keep noise levels down. A higher ISO lets you shorten your exposure times, which sharpen and bring out the detail of the aurora, but that speed can come at the cost of a lot of noise, especially on an older camera. With most of the newer DLSRs you can get away with shooting at much higher ISOs and still have crystal clear images. Experiment to see what your model is capable of. If in doubt start at 400 then try 800 and compare your results. If 800 is cleaner try bumping up to your next setting. If 400 is still too noisy try slowing down your ISO to 200, or the next lower setting you have. You probably won't see much of a difference until you compare the images on a computer monitor.
Start with your focus set on infinity. When shooting aurora never use autofocus. Even if you have a camera that can find enough light to autofocus in the dark, having it set on AF can cost you shots if your camera suddenly decides it should adjust the focus. If your camera has live view, center the brightest star in your viewfinder, and focus on it, then turn on the live view function and zoom in as much as you can in the LCD preview screen, and fine tune the focus until the star is pin sharp. Then double check to make sure your autofocus is off, and lock your focus ring if you have the option. Fine tune your focus on the moon if it's out, or the most distant light source of any other kind that you can see. If you can lock your focus, you might try setting it before dusk so that you don't have to worry about it in the dark. Sometimes a piece of tape will do the trick - but this doesn't work for everyone.
Experiment with your white balance setting, and go with the one that looks truest to you for that particular night and location. Many aurora photographers find that auto white balance works best. Here's a link showing how to set custom WB on a Canon D7:
blog.uniquephoto.com/?p=7131Digital cameras allow you the freedom to shoot continually without worrying about the cost, and delete the duds when you upload them to your computer, but don't forget that post processing can sometimes boost as inconsequential photo to something worth printing if you use care and keep your adjustments small.
More information:
Auroralovers.com has another article called "Quick aurora photo tips" here"
auroralovers.com/photo-tipsFantastic information from the blog of Natalia Robba:
www.natalia-robba.com/myblog/t…An article from Alaska Dispatch, with more advice:
www.alaskadispatch.com/article…Another great blog with useful info:
www.alaskaphotographyblog.com/… A good place to learn more photography basics:
www.digital-photography-school… The basic concepts of photography in simple terms:
www.dpchallenge.com/tutorial.p…Canon's - "Step Outside of Auto" tutorial can help a beginning DSLR user get more comfortable with all those dials and buttons:
www.canonoutsideofauto.caClasses:
Here are a list of classes on photography, post processing, sometimes specifically aurora photography, and other related subjects. I would love to share more links to instructors specifically aurora photography teachers. If you have information I can share, please send me a note!
Instructor: Ray Bulson
Company: Ray Bulson Photography
Website:
www.facebook.com/RayBulsonPhot…Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Classes offered: Digital Photography Simplified Workshops, Adobe Lightroom 4/5 Essentials Workshops
Instructor: Sophia Jordan
Company: Sophia Jordan Photography, LLC
Website:
www.sophiajordanphotography.co…Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Classes offered: DSLR/Digital Photography, Aurora, and/or Family Photography Workshops
Instructor: Dionys Moser
Company:
Website:
www.fotoreisen.ch/Location: Norway
Classes offered:
Instructor: Roger Marty
Company: Roger Marty Photography
Website:
http/www.rogermartyphoto.com/Location: Fairbanks/North Pole
Classes offered: Aurora Classes
Instructor: Ronn Murray
Company: Ronn Murray Photography
Website: www.AlaskaAuroraTours.com
Location: Fairbanks/Interior Alaska
Classes offered: Aurora Photography Workshop Tours
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To find out when you should be ready to watch aurora, sign up for aurora alerts:
For free, from the University of Alaska, Fairbanks' Geophysical Institute, here:
gi.alaska.edu/mailman/listinfo…Or subscribe to Spaceweather.com's alerts here:
spaceweatherphone.com/Or sign up for SoftServeNews' twitter feed:
www.softservenews.com/Aurora-A…Keep your eye on the aurora forecasts any of these websites. There are other sites on the internet as well, just search!
All of my information is from personal experience or from asking questions of more experienced photographers. When I see fabulous work, I look for tips and ask questions! Ask around whenever you can, and you'll be ready when the aurora flashes at us over the next cycle.
Aurora Activity is measured on a scale called the Planetary K index, or Kp index. This scale runs from 0 to 9, with zero being inactive.
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There are some wonderful time lapse videos available at
auroralovers.com/video that can give you a glimpse of what it's like to see the aurora in action. Even these fascinating compilations though, are no replacement for the experience of witnessing the aurora in person.